Timely Lawn & Landscape Tips / March & April
LAWNS (cool season grasses only):
DO apply a selective post-emergent herbicide product if there are many actively growing broadleaf weeds. To be most effective also on crabgrass, this must be applied on young crabgrass plants (before they have grown more than 4 leaves). If not targeting crabgrass you could wait as late as early May to kill broadleaf weeds.
A selective post-emergent herbicide targets weeds without damaging any surrounding grass. Systemic types are absorbed by the plant through the soil which kills the entire structure of the weed and is especially good for stopping perennial weeds. Contact types kill the leaves & stem so that the weed cannot continue photosynthesis & are very effective on annual weeds. There are liquid & granular forms of both & a variety of herbicides in products.
*My preferred product for use on my lawn is Trimec Lawn Weed Killer Plus Crabgrass Control applied with a hose end sprayer.
MV will use Weed B Gone Plus Crabgrass Control applied with a tank sprayer (we have no water source at the entrance).
DO begin mowing established lawns at 2 1/2″- 4″ height. This conserves soil moisture, shades weed seeds from germinating & avoids damaging grass crowns.
DO mow frequently enough to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade height which causes grass stress.
DO leave clippings to decompose if they are short. This does not create thatch but will quickly decompose & release valuable nutrients.
DON’T over seed or renovate a lawn until mid-August to September. In spring there is too much weed competition, rising night temperatures slow growth & excessive rain can cause puddling & washouts of seed.
DO sod anytime as watering is the primary key to success.
LANDSCAPES:
DO clean up perennials of dead material to basal or new growth.
DO divide and/or transplant perennials as soon as new basal leaf growth occurs. Transplants will settle in & be able to take advantage of the rapid growth that comes with warmer temperatures. MV will be transplanting perennials to Kalmia from the entrance & from donations.
DON’T plant new perennials until official spring as many will be frost/freeze sensitive. Annual pansies are hardy here fall through spring.
DO pull all bedding weeds before applying a weed preventer such as Preen. Apply on top of mulch. Don’t disturb this weed barrier for 6 weeks, so wait to use until you are done planting.
PRUNING SHRUBS:
DO know your plant before you pick up those pruners! Consult the resource https://content.ces.ncsu.edu for plant identification & pruning instructions. Prune out dead, diseased or damaged material at any time of year.
DO prune broadleaf evergreens & needled evergreens to size & shape. Spring is the best time to be aggressive. Avoid cutting into the bare stems of needled evergreens as some do not flush new growth. MV will be pruning the Cherry Laurel at the entrance before they bloom as the pollen is problematic for the pruner!
DO know the general rule regarding pruning flowering shrubs: It is generally safe to prune within 1 month after flowering. Prune shrubs that flower on NEW GROWTH now & in late summer or fall after flowering. Prune those that flower on last year’s OLD GROWTH after they flower in the spring such as Forsythia, Azalea, Quince & Rhododendron.
DO prune only these varieties of hydrangea now: Panicle or Paniculata to desired size by cutting to 1/4″ above a healthy leaf bud. Some common varieties are Limelight, Little Lime, Pee Gee, Firelight, Pinky Winky & Bobo. MV will prune the Little Lime shrubs at the entrance.
DO also prune hydrangea Arborescens (aka Smooth) down to 1 foot & cut out any suckers that exceed your desired size. Common varieties are Annabelle, Invincibelle series, & Incrediball series.
DO prune roses now & fertilize.
Hydrangeas are the plants that are the most confusing regarding pruning.